Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these stories and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
